ثلاثة أيام
Day Three
Masada: The Myth of Masada
Our day started with a trip to Masada. I lucked out because Chip and Gordon decided to save time by taking the cable car up to the site rather than walk up the side of the mountain on the Roman Ramp. Thank God for Jesus! I would not have made it, I can tell you that right now. The cliffs on the east edge of Masada are about 1,300 feet high and the cliffs on the west are about 300 feet. You walk that in the hot Middle Eastern sun!
Masada is the Jewish word for fortress and is the site where Herod built his "refuge" temple. According to Josephus, a first-century Jewish Roman historian, Herod the Great fortified Masada between 37 and 31 BCE as a refuge for himself in the event of a revolt. In 66 CE, at the beginning of the First Jewish-Roman War against the Roman Empire, a group of Jewish extremists called the Sicarii overcame the Roman garrison of Masada. After the destruction of the Temple, the Jewish rebels and their families fled Jerusalem and settled on the mountain top, using it as a base for raiding Roman settlements. According to the legend of Josephus, when it became apparent that the Roman soldiers were going to gain access to the site, the leader of the zealots, Elazar ben Ya'ir, made the decision that it was better for the some 1000 Jewish inhabitants to commit mass suicide rather than to become the slaves of the Roman Empire.
As I am finding with most things in the Middle East, things are not always what they seem to be. It would be easy to accept this story that has been propagated for 2000 years, but the truth is never that simple in this land. Our guide suggested that in all probabilty this story that we have been told is not likely to be true. He cites the fact that no bones were ever recovered from a site that has been thouroughly explored by archeologist. How is this possible? If 1000 people died there surely there would be some evidence of it, especially considering that the site has survived through the centuries, I'm sure due to its remote location and rough terrain. Samir suggested that the Jewish inhabitants dod not commit suicide but escaped the Roman Army by taking the Eastern escape route that Herod had built.
Masada is not the only myth that we hold on to because for whatever reason it is easier to accept than the truth. My question is why do we choose to believe a probable lie rather than accepting what recent archeological and expert opinion suggests?
Ein Gedi: Climbing Mountains Again!!!!!
I avoided the mountain climbing at Masada but would not be so lucky at Ein Gedi! Okay, can you say treacherous? It was absolutely crazy, but I must admit, one of the most beautiful places that I have ever seen in my life. As the pictures will attest, there was swimming at the bottom of small waterfalls that were surrounded by mountains. It was like we were in a paradise that had been tucked away just for us. The water was cold, or so I am told because I did not go in.
While at the base of the mountain at Masada, Samir; Chip and I had a conversation about our time thus far in Israel. i shared with them that I had not made an "emotional" connection with the land. Istill felt very removed from the sites that we were exploring and the history associated with it. I think that I had this image in my mind that I would be overwhelmed by emotions and a sense of spiritual connection to this land that has become so important to the three Abrahamic faiths. I think that I thought that I would feel closer to God here, as though God is more present in this land than anywhere else on earth. But as I began to make my descent down the side of that remote mountain I began to feel God's presence. I don;t know why there and not at any of the sites that we had visited prior to it, but I can't deny that it was there. I began to feel a connection to this space and to a God who orchestrated this history and even the very moment. As I looked across the rocky landscape towards the Dead Sea in the distance, I knew that my mistake was placing my focus on the land and the history rather than on the acts of God in this land and through the history of its people. I believe I felt God because I sought God rather than some "emotional" feeling.
Dead Sea: Look Mom, I'm floating!
The Dead Sea was crazy! It was a very funny experience being in the water which tasted absolutely disgusting by the way. I didn't particularly like it. As some of you may know, I have control issues so the experience was very uncomfortable for me. I couldn't stand up when I wanted to. It was a struggle for me to control my body at all. Turning over was a struggle and floating on my back caused muscle spasms in my underworked abdominal muscles. I did I say that the water tasted disgusting? Mind you, I did not let any get in my mouth on purpose, but it was inevitable that water would get on my lips and it took forever to get that taste off of them. The water has an irridescent quality to it and it looks like water that has clear syrup added to it. Do you know that wavy look that I am talking about? I would guess that it has something to do with the salt and mineral content. Who knows? I guess I could look it up. The rocks closest to the shore are white due to a build up of salt deposits. We didn't stay that long and in spite of my complaints, I am glad that we went and that I went into the water. You know how black women feel about getting their hair wet.
Jericho: Middle Eastern Hard Sell :(
Below is a video that is mis-named. It is Samir teaching at Hisham's Palace in Jericho.
It is 12:28 am on this side of the world, once again I am going to have to cut this blog short but I will do my beat to come back to it and add not only my written content but more pictures from the day. I was having a heck of a time getting them uploaded tonight.
Tel Jericho, the Old City: The hills are alive with the sound of footsteps. Ahhhhh, ahhhh (background vocals: Ryan)
Ask Jimmy what happens when one man's love for peacocks goes awry.
Jericho Intercontinental Hotel: Taking the Good with the Bad
I know it is not a cool thing to admit, but I love luxury hotels. There, I said it!